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Signed and Designer Jewelry 

M ~ Z

Jewelry in this section of Emerald City is organized by the maker or designer in alphabetical order for name.  Be sure to check the Misc. section at the end for lesser known makers or those with just a few pieces represented. 

Just click on the image to see the larger view.

Mandle

Mandle Emerald Cabochon Parure

From the 1960s, this regal parure of bracelet, brooch and clip earrings, was inspired by the royal jewels of India.  Ornate silvertone curlicues contain sparkling rhinestones and emerald green cabochons.  The brooch has an especially deep cab in the center.  Luscious pieces from this hard to find maker.  Marked:  Mandle ©
Bracelet: 7 by 1"; Brooch: 2¼ by 2¼"; Earrings: 1 5/8" long

SX166

$265


Mandle Black & White Cat Brooch

This rare and adorable kitty has such personality and is ready for adoption.  Enameling creates the black and white coloring and wide-eyed expression in a loveable face complete with wire whiskers.  Such a fun and whimsical figural!  Marked: Mandle ©
Reference: VFCJ Newsletter, Winter 2003, click here for the drawing from the article.
1¾ by 1"

SX250

$120


Mandle Purple Cabochon and Pearls Brooch

This brooch is very regal in color and design.  From the 1960s when Mogul style jewelry was popular, it even has paisley shaped red stones adding rich color to the purple cab and faux pearls.  Marked: Mandle ©
2 by 1¾"

SX221

$96


Mandle Violets and Pearls Bracelet & Brooch

Such a sweet design!  Both bracelet and brooch use amethyst colored molded flowers with a satin finish plus rhinestones and faux pearls.  Set in goldtone, this provides a lovely bunch of violets for wrist and lapel.  Exceptional condition.  Marked: R Mandle © [w/ crown]
Bracelet: 7½ by ½"; Brooch: 2 by 1¼"

SX226

$120

 

Marvella

Marvella Pearl Dangle Earrings
sx064.jpg (27836 bytes)

Dramatic "shoulder dusters" best describes these incredible earrings.  Reminiscent of Christmas trees, the airy open design features pavé rhinestones and dangling simulated pearls in silvertone settings.  The clip back mechanisms have screw adjusters for comfort.  Marked: Marvella
3½" long, 1¾" wide

SX064

$92

 

Monet

This mark from Monocraft Co, was first used in 1937.   Early Monet jewelry featured stylish Art Moderne designs ahead of their time and the company was well known for goldtone tailored pieces in the 1960s.  Monet was instrumental in developing advances in earring clasp mechanisms.

Monet Leaflet Link Bracelet

This sleek and stylish Art Moderne link bracelet has dimensional links resembling double leaves with a slit along each one.  From the 1940s, this rare bracelet has a mildly worn gold wash.  Marked: Monet Sterling
7 1/8 by 1 1/8"

SX188

$100


Monet Sterling Retro Moderne Brooch

With all the grace so typical of Retro Moderne pieces, this sterling brooch resembles a pleated and flowing bow.  The rose gold plating gives is warmth.  This piece can be dated to 1944 from Monet patents for very similar designs.   Marked: Monet, Sterling
3 by 1¾"

SX173

$75

 

 

ORA

Produced by Agnini & Singer, the lovely jewelry bearing this mark is known for the hefty rhodium plating and beautiful quality.  Prior to the 1950s the pieces were unmarked, but can sometimes be identified by style and construction.

ORA Pavéd Fan Brooch & Earrings

The intricate details and realism of the fan design make this set special.  The brooch and screw-back earrings are silvertone and glittering with rhinestones.  Exceptional condition.  Marked: ORA
Brooch: 2½ by 2"; Earrings: 1 by 7/8"

SX212

$136


Ora Emerald Brooch & Earrings

It's unusual to find so much color in Ora pieces, but this brooch and clip earring set is very vividly green.  The emerald green stones are accented with rhinestones, all in silvertone settings.  Marked: ORA
Brooch: 2¾ by 2"; Earrings: 1½ by 1"

SX111

$135


Ora Pavé Piano Pin

Made for the music lover, this lovely grand piano brooch is encrusted with rhinestones that would make Liberace proud.  Rhodium plated; super condition.  Marked: ORA 
1½ by 1½"

SX110

$70


Ora Purple Pansy
Brooch & Earrings

Fresh out of the garden, this pansy set shows a wonderful use of color with rhinestones in shades of purple for the petals, amber flower centers and peridot leaf.  Settings are silvertone; clip earrings.  Colors are more pronounced in person.  Marked: ORA
Brooch: 2½ by 1½"; Earrings: 1¼ by 1¼"

SX167

$95


Ora Dazzling Spray Brooch

Exuberant and lively, this stylized floral brooch dazzles the eye with its huge oval rhinestones and array of various shaped rhinestones. Silvertone settings; excellent condition.  Bolder than most Ora pieces, it's great fun!  Marked: ORA
2¾ by 2½"

SX200

$110


Ora Moon & Stars Bracelet & Earrings

Set in silvertone, this charming bracelet and clip earring set features thermoset plastic crescent moons among twinkling rhinestones.   Slight wear to the finish on the back, typical of its age; ca. 1950s.   Marked: ORA
Bracelet: 7 by 1¼"; Earrings: 1¼ by 1"

SX186

$85


Ora Lacy Leaf Earrings
SX102.JPG (20389 bytes)

Overlapping leaves create a lacy, elegant look to these clip earrings.  Like most Ora pieces, they're feminine and radiant.  Silvertone settings have some open work for the leaf veins.   Marked: ORA
1 3/8 by 1"

SX102

$72


Delicate Fan Brooch

Enticing and elegant, the detail on this fan brooch is wonderful.  Just the right amount of sparkle from the rhinestones in a nicely constructed silvertone setting.  Pieces from this maker are hard to find.  Marked: ORA
2½ by 2"

SX041

$96


Saturn Earrings

Like celestial bodies, these radiant pavé rhinestone earrings portray the planet Saturn with its rings.  Let them orbit around your face for additional glow.  Marked: ORA (clip is marked w/ Pat. No. 1967965)
7/8 by 5/8"

SX085

$72

 

Panetta

In production since 1945, Panetta jewelry has always been known for it's "real look", quality and attention to detail.

Panetta Lightning Bangle

sx053.jpg (7225 bytes)

Like a lightning bolt, this dramatic design streaks around your wrist.  As with all Panetta jewelry, this has that "real look" of gold and diamonds and is beautifully made.  The bracelet is hinged with a push clasp and safety chain.  Marked: © Panetta 
6¾" (interior circumference)

SX053

$82

 

Pell

Founded in 1941 by the Gaita brothers, this New York company is known for classic designs incorporating baguettes and for cute figural brooches. 

Pell Swirling Wreath Brooch

Stunning and radiant best describes this stylized wreath shaped brooch.  The curving lines are composed of baguettes with large navettes between them.  Silvertone setting.  Marked: Pell
2¼ by 1¾"

SP034

$75


Pell Curling Leaf Earrings

Even better in person, these rhinestone encrusted clip earrings are graceful, curving leaves with baguette stems.  Settings are rhodium plated; exceptionally good condition and better quality Pell pieces.  Marked: Pell
1¼ by 1"

SP030

$42

 

Richelieu

Jewelry with this mark was produced by Joseph H. Meyer Bros. beginning in 1911.  The company specialized in simulated pearl pieces and also produced some lovely "moonglow" beaded jewelry in the 1950s.

Richelieu Fuchsia Moonglow Bead Choker

Three strands of glowing deep fuchsia lucite beads make up this delicious choker.  These beads have come to be called "moonglow", but were originally advertised as "Satinore".  The silvertone push clasp is neatly hidden under a matching cabochon.  Marked: Richelieu
Reference: Click here to see the 1946 ad.
15½ to 20½" long

SR160

$66


Richelieu Yellow Moonglow Bead Choker

Two strands of luscious lemon yellow lucite beads make up this cheery choker.  Now known as "moonglow", these beads were originally advertised as "Satinore".  The push clasp is neatly hidden under a matching cabochon.  Exceptional condition, probably never worn.  Marked: Richelieu
Reference: Click here to see the 1946 ad.
16 and 17½" long, ½" wide at front

SR119

$52

 

Sherman

Founded by Gustave Sherman, this Canadian company produced jewelry from 1947 to 1981 and  is known for its  high quality pieces with subtle color shading, a sense of movement and excellent plating.  

Sherman Navette Spray Earrings

Beguiling and subtle in color, these sparkling clip earrings are gorgeous.  Set in goldtone the double sprays of navette rhinestones feature a layer of pale yellow (jonquil) stones over one of amber aurora borealis stones.  Exceptional condition.  Marked: Sherman
1¼ by ¾"

SX183

$75


Sherman Princess Necklace/Earrings
SX023.JPG (32587 bytes)

Sherman, a Canadian jewelry maker, has produced some dazzling pieces over the years.  This set, highlighted with marquise and baguettes, is an elegant example of the quality work.  Screw-back earrings.  Excellent condition.  Marked: Sherman
Necklace: adjusts to 16½"; Earrings: 1" long

SX023

$165

 

Silson

Believed to have formed in 1937, this company is known for its patriotic jewelry in the early 1940s.   Many of the pieces were enameled figurals, and production seems to have ended after the mid-1940s.

Silson Sapphire Floral Retro Brooch

Almost flamboyant, and definitely filled with élan, this rare and stunning 1940s brooch has stylized flower buds of huge collet set sapphire blue stones.  The curling stems are alternately pavéd and gold plated.  Rhodium plated backing and exceptional condition.  Marked: Silson
4½ by 2¼"

SS009

$275

 

Staret

Jewelry with this mark was produced by the Star Novelty Co. in Chicago, IL from 1925 to 1947.  There was a connection with Eisenberg and Star is said to have produced many of the early Eisenberg pieces.

Staret Ornate Dress Clip

From the 1930s, this dress clip is typical of Staret pieces in it's quality, substantial weight and use of large stones.  Stones are original, so they show some foil damage.  Marked: Staret (partially obscured)
2½ by 2¼"

SX038

$175


Staret Rose Pink
Dress Clip

Opulent and almost massive, this Staret dress clip is heart stopping.  Especially unusual for the colored stones, the rose pinks are divine with the crystal rhinestones, both using a variety of shapes.  Marked: Staret
3½ by 3"

SX134

$345


Staret 1940s Bow Brooch

The simplicity and graceful use of large stones makes this bow brooch very elegant.  The design is a rare one for this company that's known for the earlier, ornate pot metal pieces.  Excellent condition; ca. early 1940s.  Marked: Staret
2½ by 2¼"

SS017

$165


1930s Unmarked Staret Brooch

Not for the timid!  This huge and dazzling brooch is from this hard to find maker is a show-stopper.  An assortment of glittering stones, square, navette, oval, etc. are set in rhodium plated potmetal.  Although unmarked, it's a match for the dress clip marked:  Staret (item SX134).
3½ by 3"

SX032

$285

 

Tancer & II

This company was formed in 1970 by Michael Tancer, Marge Borofsky and Lynne Gordon, who had all worked at Coro when it closed that year.  The two sisters, Borofsky and Gordon, had previously made jewelry under the Mylu label, and Tancer & II, producing jewelry for only 9 years, was also known for figurals and holiday styles.

Tancer & II Cream Enamel Maltese Cross Brooch

There is a lovely interplay between the cream color enameling, pavé sections and faux turquoise cabochon in this Maltese cross.  Goldtone setting; circa 1970.  Although unsigned, this brooch has the same construction and styling as other Tancer pieces obtained from the same source. 
2" diam.

SX115

$65


Tancer & II Peach Enamel Art Deco Pin

This Art Deco revival brooch features yummy peach colored enameling, a simulated jade cabochon and rhinestone accents in goldtone settings.  Marked: Tancer II ©
3½ by ¾"

SX116

$62

 

Viking Craft

Sterling jewelry bearing this mark is from Albert Horwig Co., founded in about 1940.  The pieces exhibit a Scandinavian influence and were very well made, but seem to have escaped attention of collectors despite their quality and lack of abundance.  

Viking Craft Double Hibiscus Brooch

This lovely cast sterling brooch doubles the pleasure of a popular Hawaiian hibiscus motif with two blossoms swirling opposite each other.  Marked: Viking Craft Sterling
2 3/8 by 1"

SX229

$98


Viking Craft Sterling Hibiscus Earrings

A taste of the tropics, these well made sterling screw-back earrings depict hibiscus flowers with stunning detail. Marked: Viking Craft Sterling
1" diam.

SX246

$90

 

Wiesner

Very little is known about this company, but the pieces are well made, usually rhodium plated, and make use of a mixture of cuts and colors for good effect.  The glamorous execution is lighter than Weiss or Kramer pieces -- more like Bogoff jewelry of the early 1950's.  Pieces marked Astra were also from this company.

Wiesner Sapphire Blue Maple Leaf Brooch

A fun take on a traditional symbol of autumn, this lacy maple leaf brooch has rhinestone adorned edges and sapphire blue navettes and baguettes.  Exceptional condition.  Marked: Wiesner
2 by 1¾"

SX223

$86


Wiesner Deep Red Medallion Choker

The central pendant of this lovely necklace has the look of a medallion with a semi-circular array of stones.  The deep red (siam) oval stones are striking with the rhinestones and silvertone settings.  Marked: Joseph Wiesner NY
16½"; 1¾" drop

SX249

$148


Astra Emerald Stars Parure

This pretty set features emerald green rhinestone stars strung together with crystal rhinestones.  The necklace is choker length and earrings are screw-back style.  Excellent condition; ca 1950s.   Marked: Astra
Necklace: 14¾ by 1", Bracelet: 7½ by 1", Earrings: 1" dia.

SX222

$165


Star Flower Brooch
sx089.jpg (26109 bytes)

Huge navettes (marquise shaped rhinestones) form the petals of this lacy, yet fiery brooch.  The center has small pear shaped rhinestones and the setting is rhodium plated. Note: yellow tones are artifact in the image. Marked: Wiesner
2¼" diam.

SX089

$92


Wiesner Amethyst Triple Leaf Brooch

Set in goldtone, this regal looking leaf brooch has three leaflets adorned with pavé rhinestones, amethyst colored navette rhinestones, and a central amethyst oval stone.  Marked: Joseph Wiesner NY
2 3/8 by 2 1/8"

SX245

$95


Sapphire Baguette Set

sx065.jpg (33710 bytes)

Fanciful thistle-like flowers are composed of sapphire blue baguettes and pavé rhinestones in this graceful brooch.  The matching clip earrings echo the theme. Note: see the similar set, SX066.  The earrings can be interchanged!  Marked: Wiesner
Brooch: 2 by 1½"; Earrings: 1" diam.

SX065

$125


Astra Ruby Red Leaf Brooch

The flowing design of this graceful leaf brooch is enhanced by the stunning combination of deep red baguettes and navettes with crystal rhinestones.  Slight wear to the metal on the hinge mechanism, otherwise excellent condition. Marked: Astra
2 3/8 by 1 3/8""

SX224

$92


Wiesner Ornate Curving Rhinestone Choker

Sculptured and curving, this glamorous necklace is dazzling with rhinestones and very alluring when worn.  The design, use of various shaped stones and dimensions are reminiscent of bridal lace.  Marked: Joseph Wiesner NY
15½", 1½" drop

SX204

$160


Wiesner Tawny Daisies Brooch

This trio of sparkling daisy-like flowers is warm and inviting in the subtle smoky topaz rhinestones.  Settings are goldtone; exceptional condition.  Marked: Wiesner
1 5/8 by 1½"

SX203

$92


Astra Sapphire Blue Fringe Choker

This delicate real-look choker combines crystal rhinestones and sapphire blue navettes in an alluring fringe style.  Excellent condition.  Marked: Astra
15¼" long; ½" wide

SX235

$82


Wiesner Sapphire Baguette Brooch

Slightly layered and architectural looking, this 'real look' brooch makes fascinating use of basic shapes.  The central pavéd circle is domed and ringed with sapphire blue baguettes.  Rhodium plated, excellent condition. Marked: Wiesner
1 7/8 by 1 7/8" [point to point]

SX209

$92


Bold & Lacy Brooch
sx069.jpg (25216 bytes)

What a wonderful blend of design elements!  The large dazzling oval rhinestones are backed with an open lacy pavé frame.  This presents a strong, yet feminine attitude.  Note:  there is slight foil damage to one of the oval stones which is reflected in the price.  Marked: Wiesner 
2" diam.

SX069

$86


Sapphire Navette Set

sx066.jpg (30870 bytes)

An exuberant spray of sapphire blue navettes (marquise shaped rhinestones) drapes from a bow with a large central oval stone and baguettes.  The matching clip earrings swirl up the ear.  Note: see the similar set, SX065.  The earrings can be interchanged!  Marked: Wiesner
Brooch: 2¼ by 1½";  Earrings: 1 3/8 by 1"

SX066

$125

Order

Misc. Makers and Marks, M - Z

HSM Red Molded Leaf Bracelet & Earrings

Resembling the carved 'fruit salad' pieces of the 1930s, the leaves of this bracelet and clip earring set are molded stones of ruby red with rhinestone accents in silvertone settings.  This is one of the scarce designs from Harrice Simons Miller, author of vintage costume jewelry reference books.  Earrings have built-in pads for comfort.  Marked: HSM 1992
Bracelet: 8 by ¾"; Earrings: 1¼ by 1"

SX248

$150


Miracle Purple Cabochon Thistle Brooch

This lovely brooch has a central thistle with Celtic designs and gorgeous purple art glass cabochons.  Classic and well made.  Marked: Miracle
1 5/8" diam.

SX155

$68


Norma Horse & Flower Cart Brooch

From the 1940's, this sterling figural piece is of a horse and cart with it's driver, as if on the way to market with a bundle of flowers.  The stones are peaked cabochons in various colors.   There is some wear to the rose-gold wash, but it's less noticeable when worn than in the image, and is reflected in the price.  Marked: Norma, Sterling
2¾ by 1½"

SX152

$90


Pomerantz Flamboyant Floral Brooch

Not for the timid, this silvertone and rhinestone brooch is an eye-catcher!  Both substantial in size and weight, it works great on a coat, jacket or at the waist.
Marked: H Pomerantz & Co, NY
4¾ by 2"

SX205

$116


R&F Rosy Wreath
Pin Clip

This exuberant and dimensional pin clip (fur clip) is very well made with rhodium plating, similar to Sherman pieces.  A spray of rhinestones shoots through the center of the rose rhinestone wreath like a display of fireworks.  One prong also has a safely catch; super condition.  Marked: R&F [believed to be a Canadian firm]
2½ by 1¾"

SX187

$92


Edwardian Sterling Enameled Collar Pins

These three collar pins have the sweetest, most intricate design, especially given their small size.  The lavender, purple, green and white enameling creates a spray of flowers and leaves all tied up with a bow.  Exceptional condition; ca. 1905.  Marked: R.H. Sterling [believed to be a Canadian company]
1 1/8 by ¼"

SX208

$110


Nettie Rosenstein Sterling Paisley Fur Clip

A graceful and fun design, this 1940s fur clip looks like a dimensional paisley with open areas.  The gold plating is a lovely mellow tone.  This substantial piece is both rare and beautifully made.   Marked: Nettie Rosenstein, Sterling
2½ by 1½"

SX171

$175


Schauer Emerald Link Bracelet

Bold and chunky, this flamboyant link bracelet has all the hallmarks (construction, findings and design) to be attributed to Schauer Fifth Avenue which was known for oval linked pieces with large stones.  The huge faux emeralds in this piece are alternately emerald cut and oval in goldtone settings.  Ca. 1960s; great condition.
Reference: Ettinger, Forties & Fifties Popular Jewelry, p. 115, 121; Rezazadeh, Costume Jewelry, p. 134
7½ by ¾"

SX181

$95


Schiaparelli Blue Kite Stone Earrings

SX099.JPG (27578 bytes)

Yummy shades of blue in a striking design make these earrings, as with most Schiaparelli pieces, very desirable.  The unusual kite shaped stones are open backed in goldtone settings with aurora borealis accents.  Exceptional condition.  Marked: Schiaparelli
Reference: Harrice Miller, Costume Jewelry, 2nd Ed., p. 223
1½ by 1"

SX099

$145


Schöffel Sapphire Brooch

While moderate in size, this dimensional brooch has a lot of glitz!   Beautifully constructed with various shapes of stones layered into a rhinestone confection, it comes from an Austrian company, ca. 1960.  A slight cloudiness to the baguettes can be seen under magnification.  Marked:  crown mark of Schöffel & Co.
2¼ by 1¼"

SX083

$96


Schrager Butterfly Brooch
up125.jpg (74598 bytes)

"Dramatic" best describes this gorgeous creature!  While very similar to the famous Staret butterfly, this piece, from the same time period, has some differences.  The potmetal setting has pavé stones and large amethyst colored oval stones.
Reference: Brunialti, A Tribute to America, p. 184 (ad); Leshner, Vintage Jewelry 1920-1940s, p. 103.  Click here for the 1942 ad.
3¾ by 3"

UP125

$178


Selini Blue & Green Floral Fantasy Set

Frothy and fanciful, this fun brooch and clip earring set dates from the late 1950s.  It incorporates enameling, crackle and aurora borealis beads and glittering rhinestones.  Although never worn, there is a teeny nick in the enameling on one flower of each of the pieces.  Marked: Selini ©
Brooch: 2¾ by 2"; Earrings: 1 by 1"

SX149

$115


Silverman Sterling Figural Model-T Brooch

This adorable figural brooch shows a couple out for a drive in their 'Tin Lizzie' or Model-T auto.  It elicits memories of olden days, specifically the early 1900s.  Marked: SB [in an oval, the mark for Silverman Corp], Sterling
1½ by 1¼"

SX239

$68


Tortolani Intricate Leaf Set

The simple shapes of these pieces, triangular and crescent, are filled with life due to the complexity of the overlapping textured leaves and berries.  The brooch is also a pendant to be worn on the matching chain.  Earrings are clip style.   Marked: Tortolani ©
Brooch: 2 1/8 by 2 1/8"; Chain: 21" long; Earrings: 1¾ by 1"

SX215

$150


Uncas Sterling Heart Ring

Such a sweet little ring!  The delicate design surrounds an amber, heart-shaped stone, and it dates from 1934.  Probably produced for young girls or teens, it can be worn as a pinky ring.  Marked: Kiddiegem [mark of Uncas Mfg.] Sterling
Size 4½

SX230

$66


Vogue Party Girl Set

Like disco balls with baguettes, this necklace and clip earring set is a wowser!  Silvertone settings and lots of dazzling rhinestones for a very flirty look.  Vogue was known for their innovative designs.  Marked: Vogue
Necklace: adjusts to 15"; Earrings: 1¾" long

SX082

$165


Watson Sterling Guilloché Floral Sash Brooch

This rare piece is a splendid example of Edwardian elegance.  The large sterling sash pin has a white guilloché background with delicate pink flowers and is edged in slate blue.  Exceptional condition; ca. 1915.  Marked: Watson [pictoral marks]
3 by 1¾"

SX237

$195

Order

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